Mortons: A Review

Last night my wife and I went to the chain steakhouse Mortons. By and large I think that the idea of an upscale chain restaurant is self defeating. If a restaurant is a chain, it has a set menu. If it has a set menu there is no creativity, and thusly can never be truly unique. However I must say that Mortons does a fine job.

We entered late on a Tuesday night. The restaurant is dimly lit, and teaming with a staff dressed to impressed. The Maitre'D, dressed in a tuxedo, knew us by name before we entered. He showed us to our table quickly, and pulled out the table from the booth so that we could sit. We were given not one, but two waiters. The first gave us the extensive (yet still exceedingly overpriced) wine list. The second waiter came about and recited the extent of their nicely sized menu from top to bottom. As well as showed us a tray of all of their cuts of prime dry aged beef. The tray includes a double cut porterhouse that is carved table side by the Maitre'D.

Despite my best efforts, I decided to order the tuna tar tar for an appetizer. I think that a tuna tar tar on a menu is redundant and over done, everyone has one. However it is still a dish that I cannot help but enjoy.

The tuna tar tar was excellent. It was nicely ring molded stack of layers of tomato, avocado, and yellow fin tuna. Each piece was cut precisely the same size as the last. The tuna was tossed in just the right amount of sesame oil. There were two sauces on the plate; one an ever so cliche balsamic vinegar reduction, and the other a creamy curry sauce of sorts. Despite the dish's obviousness, it was wonderful. The only thing I did not enjoy was that the stack of avocado, tomato, and tuna was sitting on a bed of alfalfa sprouts; which served no purpose other than to be there.

Our entrees came next. It being a steakhouse I ordered a porterhouse, my wife a filet. The beef was cooked exactly as we had asked it to be. The sides at Mortons come family style. We ordered asparagus with hollandaise and the pomme frites (again nothing of a stretch on the menu). Despite the averageness of the choices, the food was wonderful. The beef truly was prime and dry aged. And while french fries are a far cry from unique, theirs were nothing shy of perfect.

We finished the meal with a chocolate souffle which came with a "sabayon sauce". The souffle was textbook perfect. It was rich, light, and airy. And while the sauce was wonderful, it was not a sabayon as they had said.

Overall I would definitely go back. The food is outstanding, the atmosphere relaxing, and the staff superb. Their attention to detail is something most other restaurants lack. My only complaint is that it is overpriced, and there is nothing on the menu that makes it truly unique. Fortunately for you there's probably one in your city. This is not the type of place to bring children. So if you've got the cash, then you should definitely go. Expect to pay around $220 for two people (tax and tip in there too). That's including one appetizer, two entree's, a shared dessert, and a couple of cocktails. Fortunately enough; even while sharing the appetizer and dessert, you'll still walk out of there feeling like you ate way too much.

Mortons Steakhouse 8.5 out of 10